Vineyard Vantage Point
SANTA YNEZ, CA: The Vogelzang Vineyards along Happy Canyon Road are viewed from a high vantage point near Santa Ynez, California. Vogelzang has been growing grapes since 1998 and in 2005 it began to produce its own wines.
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Some people run a marathon once each year. That's not my speed. Instead, I knuckle down and taste 200 Cabernets for breakfast on one particular Saturday morning.
Each year, the Napa Valley Vintners Association pulls out all the stops to host its annual fundraising event known as Premiere Napa Valley. Not to be confused with its star-studded charity auction in the spring (known as Auction Napa Valley), Premiere Napa Valley is a more focused event. It is a barrel tasting and auction, in which the wines on offer are all unique creations made specifically and only for this event, offering purchasers the opportunity to own an incredibly rare wine that often represents the very pinnacle of the winemaker's efforts in that vintage. All the invited bidders are ostensibly in the wine trade (retailers, distributors, etc.), while other attendees include the media and winery staff. The proceeds from the auction of more than 200 unique lots of wine go to help fund the Vintners Association itself.
The auction action at Premiere always serves as something of a barometer for California wine, measuring both the strength of the Napa brand in the marketplace, as well as the interest in the upper echelon of fine California wine (many auction lots sell for well over $2000 per bottle).
Last weekend, the Vintners raised more than $3.9 million dollars at the auction, which was the first time in several years that this number has ticked upwards (last year's take was $3.7 million). There continue to be fewer superstar wineries participating in the event (by superstar I mean highly allocated wineries that sell almost the entirety of their production to mailing lists) and the number of full-barrel lots of wine continue to decrease. Combine those facts with uncertainties in the economy and changing demographics in the wine industry and there seems to be a recipe for falling demand for Napa's most exclusive wines.
But this year saw an increase in spending, only days before the financial markets tanked thanks to worries over impacts of the Coronavirus. So what was responsible for that uptick?
Part of it might be the vintage itself.
One of the primary reasons I attempt to taste widely at this event is that it affords an opportunity to take a look at what you might characterize as the pinnacle of the vintage. Most producers attempt to offer, if not their absolute best, certainly one of their highest quality wines. Consequently, these wines show the best of what is possible given the conditions of the vintage, sparing no expense.
So how does 2018 stack up? Frankly, I can't remember being this excited about a vintage in many a year. 2018 is a complete knockout, with phenomenal potential. To my palate, these are some of the best wines that Napa has seen in almost a decade. I felt particularly bullish about the 2013 and the 2016 vintages, but the 2018s have a finesse, an elegance and a silkiness of tannins that is unmatched in recent memory.
And there's a reason. "This was one of those rather unusual vintages that was both abundant and delicious. The weather from veraison to picking was nothing less than perfect. There were no heat spikes, only even, moderate weather," said winemaker Cathy Corison when I asked her for her thoughts.
Other winemakers I spoke with said much the same, most using superlatives that are rare out of the mouths of winemakers, who are seemingly always positive but slightly hedging their bets.
2016 offered much the same "Goldilocks" kind of vintage, but that year came on the heels of significant drought stress, and perhaps in 2018 after a bit of relief, the vines were back to peak form.
Indeed, one could not have asked for a better growing season. After serious heatwaves in 2015 and the fire-scarred vintage of 2017, 2018 was the most even, relaxed and untroubled growing season in more than a decade. The spring was mild and through the summer Napa saw very few days above 100 degrees, leaving the grapes to beautifully mature to an apogee of ripeness and acid balance untroubled by adversity of any kind. Indeed those who cared to were able to leave the grapes out 2-3 weeks longer on the vine than in several previous vintages, thanks to a cooling of temperatures that emerged mid-August (after a slightly warmer than normal beginning to the month).
Simply put, you'd have to screw up pretty badly to make a bad wine in 2018, and not many people did. In a less mature region, overcropping would be a problem in such a generous vintage, but most Napa producers know better, not to mention the fact that few want to increase their production numbers in a market that promises to be even more challenging in the coming years. Nonetheless, 2018 was the largest harvest by volume in California for years, leading many people to suggest (quite rightly) that there's going to be a lot of inexpensive wine out there, and it will be higher quality than usual, thanks to a lot of top producers who sold off their juice rather than put it in bottles they'd have to sell themselves.
While almost all of the wines below will be out of reach for even typically spendy Napa fans, you can still use my scores as a buying guide. Anyone who made a rockstar wine below for $300+ a bottle will likely have done a pretty damn good job with their standard $80 wine, so keep your eyes and ears out for the 2018s when they hit the market in late 2021 or early 2022.
Here are my scores for everything I tasted. The notes in italics after each wine are my brief thoughts made on the spot while tasting. I managed to get through all but five of the 201 wines on offer. Note that anyone interested in getting ahold of the wines below can discover their availability through Premiere Napa Wines, a web site designed to connect successful bidders with consumers who may want to purchase the wines.
WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10
2018 Farella Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville This barrel sample has gorgeous herbal aromas mixed with cherry fruit. In the mouth, the wine is expansive - juicy, bright and balanced with a cool cherry cola aspect shot through with fantastic acidity and lingering for a great length on the palate.
2018 Favia Erickson Winegrowers Red Wine, Napa Valley Stunning wine with gorgeous bright cherry fruit gushing across the palate shot through with supple fine tannins. Notes of sour cherry make the mouth positively water with fantastic acidity. Great length.
2018 OVID. Napa Valley Red Wine, Napa Valley Almost savory in aspect, this wine has an herbal, near-tapenade quality that merges with its juicy dark red fruit. Wonderfully long and delicious with fantastic acidity and the finest supple tannins working like a well toned muscle under the perfect skin.
2018 Corison Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Incredibly buoyant, this wine delivers nervy, zingy cherry fruit and herbal notes that expansively broaden into dried flowers and more. Fantastic acidity and youth.
2018 Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley This is old school Cabernet Sauvignon, refined and finessed with a wonderful balance between cherry and a greenish herbal note that melds with the fine oak in a distinctly Bordelaise character. Gorgeously silky tannins caress the fruit as it lingers for minutes.
2018 Continuum Estate Red Wine, Napa Valley Darker in character with black cherry and a hint of blue fruits this wine has a perfect balance of power and finesse that is made lively with fantastically mouthwatering acidity. Outstanding.
2018 QTR Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Wonderfully fresh and bright, plush cherry and cola notes linger for a long time, vibrating with energy and fantastic acidity.
WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2018 Viader Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright juicy, powerful, cherry, plum, herbs, long.
2018 O'Shaughnessy Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Gorgeous, bright, juicy, cherry and plum, fine tannins.
2018 Volker Eisele Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Chiles Valley District Gorgeous cherry, long, fantastically juicy and bright.
2018 Davies Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District Gorgeous, dark, juicy, long. Black cherry and cassis. With great acid.
2018 Kerr Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Gorgeous, bright, juicy, mouthwatering cherry.
2018 Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Bright, juicy, great length. Sour cherry, fine tight tannins.
2018 Lang & Reed Wine Company Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley Juicy, sour cherry, cola nut, espresso, more new oak than usual, but bright.
2018 TOR Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Gorgeous, bright, juicy.
2018 Hourglass Red Wine, Napa Valley Juicy, bright, long, cola nut, and cherry.
2018 Arrow&Branch Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Juicy, bright, long, balanced, refined tannins, cherry and plum.
2018 Gargiulo Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Juicy bright cherry, long.
2018 Inglenook Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Bright, juicy, great acidity, oak influence a bit too much. Undeniably generous.
2018 Acumen Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak Nutty spices, cola nut, cherry, fantastic balance.
2018 Odette Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Cherry cola, espresso, bright, juicy, fine tannins
2018 Scattered Peaks Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Cherry. Juicy black cherry. Great acid. Fantastic. Long finish.
2018 Matthiasson Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville Herbs and juicy red fruit. Great acidity.
2018 To Kalon Vineyard Company Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Rich, juicy cherry cola, fine tannins.
2017 Taub Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Bright, juicy, round cherry, great acidity.
2018 TEXTBOOK Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Juicy, bright, restrained, herbal, cherry, fine tannins.
2018 Rudd Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder Powerful and bright, juicy, long, cherry, cola, outstanding.
2018 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Bright cherry mellow tannins, good acid, and the espresso of new oak
WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2018 Paradigm Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
2018 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Juicy, cherry, bright, fine tannins, great length.
2018 Whitehall Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Juicy and bright, long.
2018 Buena Vista Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Merryvale Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Great acidity, mouthwatering.
2018 Cain Vineyard & Winery Malbec, Spring Mountain District Juicy, savory, bright and long.
2017 Oakville East Exposure Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
2018 Seavey Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Juicy and bright.
2018 AXR Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Intense, thick tannins.
2018 The Hess Collection Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder
2019 Blackbird Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 HALL Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District
2018 Somerston Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Gorgeous, refined, bright cherry and espresso.
2018 Arietta Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright cola, cherry, sour cherry, tight tannins, serious wood influence.
2018 Antica Napa Valley - Antinori Family Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak A little reduced, black cherry cassis, good acids, big tannins.
2018 Long Meadow Ranch Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Staglin Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Toasty coffee, cherry, tight tannins, good acids.
2018 Trefethen Family Vineyards Red Wine, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley
2018 THE GRADE Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga Bright juicy, cherry, tight, nutty tannins, long.
2018 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville
2018 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Ripe and plush, with with enough acidity to make it juicy. Velvety tannins.
2018 Dakota Shy Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Juicy and bright, cherry, cola.
2018 Bell Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Cherry, cassis, great acid.
2018 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Classic, blue and red fruit, tight tannins, great acid.
2018 Coup De Foudre Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga Cherry, bright, boysenberry, with fine tannins,
2018 Monticello Vineyards Red Wine, Oak Knoll District of Napa Valley Great acid, bright, juicy, plummy.
2018 Pott Wine Cabernet Franc, Mount Veeder Plush, bright, juicy, long.
2018 Chappellet Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Juicy espresso cherry, long, great acid, licorice.
2018 Alpha Omega Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright cherry, tight tannins, with heavy oak influence, nice acidity.
2018 Galerie Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Black cherry, bright, long, with great acid.
2018 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder Bright, juicy. Pretty oaky. Long finish.
2018 Gallica Cabernet Franc, Oakville Juicy and bright with savory notes. Nutty, cherry, green herbal notes.
2018 Cakebread Cellars Cabernet Franc, Howell Mountain Smoky.
2018 Joseph Phelps Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Juicy, tight tannins, cherry, plum.
2018 Terra Valentine Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District Juicy, bright, long, rich and balanced. Blackberry and cherry.
2018 Dyer Vineyard & Meteor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Great acidity, nice length, sour cherry and cocoa, 7% Cabernet Franc.
2018 Zakin Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Green herbs, cherry, nutty and great acid.
2018 Vineyard 29 Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena
2018 Flora Springs Winery & Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Freedom Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright cherry.
2018 Foley Johnson Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2018 Sequoia Grove Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena
2018 Guarachi Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Bright and juicy.
2018 Gandona Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Rich, cherry, espresso. Mouthwatering.
2018 Crocker & Starr Wines Cabernet Franc, St. Helena Juicy cherry mixes with hazelnut cocoa cream.
2018 Fisher Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga Juicy and bright.
2018 Hudson Ranch Chardonnay, Napa Valley Butterscotch and apple, lemon curd, juicy and rich.
2018 Vine Cliff Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Juicy, coffee and cherry, rich.
WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2018 Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot, Napa Valley Plummy, nutty.
2018 Jean Edwards Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2019 Truchard Vineyards Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Bright.
2018 Jamieson Ranch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak
2018 St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2018 Honig Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2018 Amici Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Smoky, reduced.
2018 Pine Ridge Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Clos Du Val Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Not the CdV of old, unfortunately. But Tasty.
2018 JCB by Jean-Charles Boisset Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Silver Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright, cherry, hint of coconut, and a surprisingly mellow wood influence for Silver Oak. Bright, great acids.
2018 Louis M. Martini Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 The Debate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Very dark, ripe, tight, good acidity.
2018 Pellet Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena
2019 Saintsbury Pinot Noir, Los Carneros
2019 Ancien Pinot Noir, Coombsville Juicy, bright and unusual, long. Herbal notes, and floral. Finishing with some caramel.
2018 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Artesa Vineyards & Winery Red Wine, Napa Valley 55% Tempranillo, 45% Cabernet.
2018 Keenan Winery Red Wine, Spring Mountain District
2018 Smith Devereux Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 Baldacci Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
2018 Reynolds Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District
2018 Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Ripe, tight toasty oak tannins, compressed a bit.
2018 Hewitt Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2018 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Barnett Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District
2018 TATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Nutty, blueberry, coffee.
2018 Cliff Lede Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
2018 PEJU Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley Massive tannins.
2018 Saint Helena Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Bright
2018 Hoopes Vineyard Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 Titus Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Over-oaked, but excellent fruit.
2018 Davis Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Plush, jammy, cola and cocoa.
2018 La Jota Vineyard Co. Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Tight, oak driven, black cherry.
2018 Cornerstone Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Restrained, herbal.
2018 Anthem Winery And Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder Tight, juicy. Oak driven.
2018 Modus Operandi Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Taplin Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena
2018 Rocca Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville
2018 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville
2018 Robert Craig Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
2018 Kelly Fleming Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Calistoga
2018 Brandlin Cabernet Sauvignon, Mount Veeder
2018 Silver Ghost Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Rich ripe espresso and cherry compote.
2018 Round Pond Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Ripe and jammy but with good acid that saves it.
2018 ADAMVS Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain Ripe, sweetish.
2017 Heitz Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Bright, tart cherry, hint of bitterness, somewhat squeezed. Heavy wood influence.
2018 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Great acid, too much wood.
2019 Michael Mondavi Family Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley Juicy, bright. Clean and crisp.
2018 Silverado Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District Bright acidity, cola, cassis
2018 Terlato Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 LATERAL Merlot, Los Carneros Juicy, plummy.
2018 CONSTANT Diamond Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Sweet, rich.
2018 Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Powerful.
2018 Paula Kornell Sparkling Wine Sparkling Wine, Los Carneros Floral and savory, fresh, bright.
2018 Geodesy Wine Petit Verdot, Napa Valley Smoky, dark, first vintage.
2018 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville Juicy, smoky, slight reduced, cherry, with good acid.
2018 Tres Sabores Zinfandel, Rutherford Blackberry, juicy, 48-year-old vines.
2018 William Harrison Vineyards & Winery Red Wine, Rutherford Fruity, bright.
2018 Ackerman Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville Espresso and cherry.
2018 Pahlmeyer Cabernet, Napa Valley
WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2018 Markham Vineyards Red Wine, Yountville Plush.
2018 ONEHOPE Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 JaM Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville
2018 Hesperian Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak Jammy, but with great acids. Too ripe, however.
2018 Buoncristiani Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Drying tannins.
2018 Starmont Winery & Vineyards Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Tooooooo much oak.
2018 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Miner Family Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville
2018 Stags' Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
2018 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Green herbal notes bell pepper -- old school -- cherry.
2018 Gamble Family Vineyards Red Wine, Oakville Ripe, jammy, tight tannins.
2018 SODHANI Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena
2018 Chimney Rock Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District
2018 Pope Valley Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Too ripe for me, but juicy.
2018 Angwin Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain
2018 Red Mare Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Krupp Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Hill Family Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2019 Paraduxx Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 Schweiger Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District
2018 Hertelendy Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 William Hill Estate Winery Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 Rombauer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Riiiiipe.
2017 Yao Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Very, very ripe. Nutty, heavy oak.
2018 Girard Winery Red Wine, Napa Valley
2017 J. McClelland Cellars Red Wine, Napa Valley
2018 S. R. Tonella Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford
2018 Luna Vineyards Sangiovese, Oakville
2019 Bouchaine Vineyards Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Sweet.
2019 Cuvaison Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Juicy.
2018 Palmaz Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Green bell pepper, ripe, plush.
2018 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon, Coombsville Ripe.
2018 Rutherford Hill Winery Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Over-oaked.
2018 Toymaker Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District
WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2018 Belle Glos Pinot Noir, Napa Valley
2018 Frank Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford Riiiipe. Sweet.
2018 Calmere Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Los Carneros
2018 Correlation Wine Company, Vineyard 7 & 8 Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District Too ripe.
2018 Bella Union Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2018 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
2019 Coquerel Family Wine Estates Sauvignon Blanc, Calistoga
2019 Hyde Estate Winery Pinot Noir, Los Carneros Too ripe.
2018 Burgess Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Ripe.
2018 Palazzo Wine Cabernet Franc, Los Carneros
2018 Ghost Block Estate Wines Red Wine, Yountville
2018 Tamber Bey Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Tooo ripe.
2018 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Riiiipe.
WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2018 Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Overripe.
NV ZD Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Raisined. Oaky.
2018 Darioush Red Wine, Napa Valley Overripe.
2018 William Cole Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Overripe
2018 Nemerever Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville Too ripe.
2018 VinRoc Cabernet Sauvignon, Atlas Peak Too ripe
2019 Faustini Wines Malbec, Napa Valley Over oaked, too ripe.
This week, I’m headed back to California with a roundup of samples I’ve received recently.
Fort Ross Winery’s Sea Slopes brand of Pinot and Chardonnay offer up some serious quality for their respective price points. It’s not often I find such fresh, complex Pinots and Chards from California for $30-$35, but these ones deliver. Gary Farrell shows an exciting Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay, while Castello di Amorosa displays three diverse wines.
And Gamble and Cardinale give plenty of delicious, inviting Napa Cabernet goodness.
These wines were received as trade samples and tasted sighted.
Whites and Rosés
2019 Raeburn Rosé– California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $20
Pale salmon color. Aromas of peaches, papaya, lime, with some verbena, mint, honeysuckle. Creamy texture on the palate, medium bodied, bright acidity. Chunky strawberry fruit, with white cherry, papaya, this is fruit-forward and fun, but also shows some spicy, herbal, floral tones. Well-done for the price. A blend of Pinot Noir, Grenache and Zinfandel. (86 points IJB)
2018 Castello di Amorosa Pinot Grigio – California, North Coast SRP: $24
Pale lemon color. Nose shows white peaches, guave, lime juice, with cut flower stems, white tea and verbena. Crisp acidity frames this full-bodied wine well, while punchy green melon and guava fruit abound. Notes of shaved lime, honeyed tea, some spice and herbal notes add some complexity. A pleasantly creamy, waxy texture, this is generous but balanced well. (87 points IJB)
2017 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Olivet Lane Vineyard – California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $45
Medium yellow color. Wow, what a pretty, inviting nose of yellow apples, kiwi and lemon curd, topped in vibrant, salty, floral, mineral complexity. Just a sniff made me salivate. The palate is plump but precise and focused with crisp fruit (yellow apple, lemon curd, white peach) and a host of racy, nuanced qualities like sea salt, river rocks, mineral water and crushed shells. Notes of almond skin and honey are woven in expertly. Not overdone at all, this is a wonderful Chardonnay for fans of more nuanced styles. I’d love to see this in five or six years. Aged nine months in 35% new French oak. (92 points IJB)
2017 Fort Ross Winery Chardonnay Sea Slopes – California, Sonoma Coast, Fort Ross – Seaview SRP: $30
Medium yellow color. Aromas of buttercream, graham crackers and cinnamon on top of yellow pears, yellow apples, topped in sea salt. Fresh and vibrant on the palate with a lovely, creamy texture. Lemon crème, kiwi, yellow apples, with nuanced honey, nougat and white tea flavors. A nice saline, floral finish. Lots of complexity, depth and vibrancy for a California Chardonnay at this price point. All stainless steel and old oak fermentation and aging, here. Value alert! (90 points IJB)
Reds
2017 Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir Sea Slopes – California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast SRP: $35
Medium ruby color. Expressive nose of cherries, strawberries, cranberries, with nuanced rose potpourri, clove and rhubarb. Medium-bodied on the palate, crisp acidity frames the wine so well, with dusty-light tannins and suave yet fresh fruit, cherries, raspberries, cranberry relish. Subtle earth, herbs, rose petal and black tea woven in well. No cola bomb here (just a hint of cola), this is fresh, bright, with lots of personality for a very reasonable price. Aged 10 months in 15% new French oak. (90 points IJB)
2017 Frank Family Vineyards Zinfandel– California, Napa Valley SRP: $38
Vibrant purple color. Inviting aromas of juicy plums, raspberries, candied black cherries, with lavender, cocoa, vanilla. Full-bodied, suave and velvety tannins, moderate acidity. Rich black cherries, raspberries and blueberries, tossed with violets, cocoa, mint, sweet pipe tobacco. Floral, coffee and vanilla elements linger on the finish. Complex and harmonious, this should open up nicely over the next few years. (90 points IJB)
2017 Castello di Amorosa Zingaro – California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley SRP: $42
Vibrant purple color. Smells of sweet plums, blueberries and roasted figs, ripe and exotic, with clove, violets and coconut. Smooth and velvety on the palate, medium/low acidity, with suave blackberry, blueberry and roasted fig fruit. A good amount of smoky, vanilla, cedar and espresso tones, but they work. Ripe and forward, highly delicious. Aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points IJB)
2015 Castello di Amorosa Sangiovese – California, Napa Valley SRP: $35
Deep ruby color. Aromas of candied cherries, juicy red plums, some smoky earth, green herbs and coffee notes. Full and smooth on the palate with surprising, pleasant acidity. Flavors of dark cherries and roasted fig show a jammy and ripe approach, but there are nuances of earth, violets, green herbs and light roast coffee blended in well. Fresh, fun, accessible, this is crowd-pleasing stuff that show some good balance and depth. Includes 6% Merlot, aged 18 months in French oak. (88 points IJB)
2016 Gamble Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon– California, Napa Valley, Oakville SRP: $60
Vibrant purple color. Smooth, dark black cherry and currants, plums, vibrant but deep fruit, with notes of coffee, cocoa, vanilla, clove and roasted chestnut. Bold texture on the palate, well-built tannins but velvety edges, and moderating acidity team up for a large but balanced wine. Roasted fig, dark plum and black currant fruit blend well with pencil lead, scorched earth, clove, along with cedar and dark chocolate shavings. Warm, inviting, suave, showing well out of the gates but this should improve well over the next five years. Includes some Malbec, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 40% new oak. (91 points IJB)
2016 Cardinale– California, Napa Valley SRP: $325
Lively purple color. Gorgeous depth of aromas here, with deep, inviting plums, black cherries and cassis, along with warm mulling spices, violets, coffee and loamy soil. On the palate, this has lots of depth, but the tannins have rounded edges, and the wine is brightened with fresh acidity, and the mouthfeel is fantastic. Pure cassis, blueberry and black cherry fruit, which is mixed well with complex notes of violets, coffee grounds, mocha, anise, tobacco and toffee. I love the fresh, crunchy aspect of this wine despite its hedonism and depth. Year-in, year-out, this wine rocks, and 2016 is another example. A blend from some 11 vineyards, this is Cabernet with 11% Merlot, aged 20 months in 93% new French oak. (96 points IJB)