Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 9/12/21

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

One of California’s most influential modern wineries, Dirty & Rowdy, is ending after 11 years
Creative differences, it seems. End of an era.

How Cabernet Franc Is Wowing Argentina’s Winemakers
Yes, indeed, there is more there than Malbec.

Why Does It Cost So Much to Ship a Box of Wine?
A good answer to a maddening question.

An ode to Palomino: still wines made from old vine Palomino offer a new narrative for this ‘neutral’ industrialised yet historic grape variety
Not just for Sherry anymore.

Peter Liem on Champagne: dosage, growers versus houses, and viticulture
Few people know more than Peter.

The Cheap Wine That Turned Americans on to Fine Wine
An important piece of history to know.

How to Taste the Fermentation Vessel in Your Wine
Or not taste, as the case may be.

Prosecco protesters rise up against ‘ruthless expansion’ of Italian winemakers
This is an awful story.

France faces lowest recorded wine output following frost and disease
So is this.

Fires, frost, and floods: Europe’s winegrowers brace for the worst harvest in memory
The question is, how often are we gonna see headlines like this one?

Extreme weather causes 60% drop in Champagne crop for 2021
Among those hit hardest.

Timber Supply Issues Are Causing Headaches for the Wine Industry
Could be a serious problem.

Most significant changes to Sherry regulations for 50 years announced
That’s some progress.

Through 3 Whites, the Art of Blending Wines
Eric on the virtues of melange.

How This Master Sommelier Became a Game-Changing Napa Valley CEO
I didn’t know his whole story. What a journey!

Chinese actress Zhao Wei, owner of Bordeaux estates, cancelled in China
And  worst of all, no one knows where she is.

How Anderson Valley’s Roederer Estate is dealing with the drought
Plan B, and Planc C.

Farmworker shortage raises worries grapes will go unpicked
COVID effects continue to play out.

The Oregon Winemakers Going Rogue with Biodynamic Bubbles and Global Grapes
Nice profiles of some interesting names.

What Becky Wasserman Taught Us About Burgundy—and Humanity
Nice remembrance and celebration.

Down The Rabbit Hole
And out the other side.

By the Bottle: Carmen Castorina
Another hidden figure.

Slow winemaking on the Sonoma Coast
A nice profile of Matt Courtney

Enabling one’s favorite predispositions
An interview with Jay McInerney

Australian wine update
Jancis sheds light on present difficulties.

Wine’s ‘Gender-Split’
And problems with polling.

Turning the Tables on Deborah Parker Wong
Q&A with the editor of Slow Food’s Slow Wine Guide.

The new fine wine
You mean the newly expensive wines that collectors want?

Going Viral: Covid Saves Chinese Wine
Local interest booms, says Jim Boyce.

Will the wildfires create an insurance desert in California North Coast?
It’s a serious problem.

Science and Culture: Wildfires pose a burning problem for wines and winemakers
A deep dive on smoke taint.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 9/12/21 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 9/5/21

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

Influential British wine critic Jancis Robinson sells her website, with plans to increase California focus
My boss has a new boss.

All change, no change
Jancis’ notes on the new ownership.

Icons with feet on the ground
Robert Joseph offers thoughts on Jancis’

Two Buck Chuck and the Lure of Bargain Wine
The story

Why Lodi Is the Most Exciting US Wine Region You’ve Never Heard of
Sara Schneider offers her thoughts.

Lodi is about to pick its first Assyrtiko
Perhaps proof point for the above.

Bright, Cheerful Vinho Verde Shows Its Serious Side
I want to drink all these wines.

5 Wines That Shaped a Nobel Prize Winner’s Life
Stories like this make wine endlessly fascinating.

This Black Hospitality Entrepreneur Launched A Wine Brand “For The Culture”
A nice profile.

Why France’s Jura Is the Next Hot Wine Region for Young Collectors
And now prices will rise.

A Brief Look at Baja’s Long Winemaking History
The original wine country.

The Future of Winemaking Is Hybrid
If only they tasted better.

Change May Be Coming to Your Favorite Wines
This is the “Wealth Matters” column.

Force of nature: WA crusader all alone on the natural wine front
Local coverage of Vanya Cullen.

Roederer Moves on from Non-vintage Champagne
More like Krug, less like Veuve Clicquot.

Bottlenecks: Biden could be about to shake up an 88-year-old system
The president can’t really change the system on his own.

The Winemakers Who Believe Vineyard Sheep Provide ‘True Terroir’
Weed control and fertilizer in one.

Several Ways to Donate to the Caldor Fire Fund Help Victims of the Fire in El Dorado County
El Dorado needs help.

Why Lodi Is the Most Exciting US Wine Region You’ve Never Heard of
More experimentation going on. For instance…

Lodi is about to pick its first Assyrtiko
I, for one, can’t wait for Lodi Assyrtiko.

Prey Tell
Sheep are cute. Falcons are badass.

Time for Wine to Go Topless
Yep, time for capsules to die.

Becky Wasserman – A lengthy and entirely personal tribute
A really lovely remembrance from Robert Joseph.

A Farewell to Becky Wasserman, a Great Sage of Burgundy
Eric Asimov’s tribute is really nice, too.

Wine waste can now be used to create race car fuel
Vroom, vroom.

By the Bottle: Emily Huang
A window into the next generation.

The rise of Nebbiolo
A nice piece by Walter Speller.

Wind Change Saves Wineries from Fire
El Dorado will have a harvest. The question is how it will taste.

Hail wreaks havoc in the vineyards of DO Ribeiro in northwest Spain
Though it sounds like it wasn’t nearly as bad as it could have been.

Spanish Wine Industry Gets Political
Again. And again.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 9/5/21 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 8/29/21

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

Family of Italian duke accused of tricking Sting fires back
For some reason, the (very old) Sting story resurfaced last week, and now… the shitstorm.

Finding Hidden Value in the White Wines of Bordeaux
As long as the oak is restrained.

Why You Should Consider Opulent White Wines from the Rhône Valley
Because…. delicious.

Great Wine Mentors
Some of the best highlighted here, for sure.

Au Revoir Becky, Burgundy Legend
Christy Canterbury says goodbye to Becky.

Why You Should Ask for a Sommelier’s Advice
The difference between a good wine experience and a great one.

Why Australia’s Heathcote Region is On the Rise
Ancient soils, small producers.

What Does ‘Midpalate’ Mean in Wine?
That section of your tongue, right… there.

The Hock Bottle and Fighting a Wine Stereotype
But the magnums are the coolest.

Swiss Canton Gives 100 Bottles of Wine to 100-Year-Olds
Now there’s a goal for ‘ya.

The (unknown) vineyard areas of Asia
And how they’re changing.

Wildfires Burn Wineries and Vineyards in Provence
More from France.

Hidden Giants
The names no one knows in wine.

1st Black women-owned winery tasting room in Alameda working to change the face of the industry
More of this, please!

Tahiirah Habibi on Making Wine Inclusive by Building Community
Yessssssss.

Appellations: Time for change?
Andrew, thoughtful as ever, and right on the money.

For These Oregon Winemakers, Smoke Taint Had a Silver Lining — Pink Wine
“Let’s all just make the best of this” reads one label.

Caldor Fire is throwing harvest into chaos in up-and-coming El Dorado wine country
Send them good thoughts, and buy their wines. They’re gonna need all the help they can get.

For France, American Vines Still Mean Sour Grapes
A slice, er, a drop, of history.

Sangiovese Struggles to Gain a Foothold
A tricky grape, to be sure.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 8/29/21 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 8/15/20

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

California Drought: Wine Country Vineyard Struggles To Stay Afloat After Well Runs Dry
Tough times ahead for some.

Taxes, Tiers and Other Ways Prohibition Still Restricts U.S. Wine
Too many restrictions.

Natural Wine and the Debate Over ‘Healthy’ Alcohol
Hard to parse facts from wishful thinking.

Sweet Visciolata and the Fleeting Joys of Summer
What nostalgia tastes like. A beautiful piece.

The Enduring Appeal of Buttery Chardonnay
The wine geeks love to hate is still going strong.

Meet the wine world’s celebrity pruner
And his 4 principles. Very cool story.

There’s wine. Then there’s natural wine. Then there’s ‘zero-zero’ wine
The fringe within the fringe.

White Zinfandel, the Acid-Washed Jeans of Wine
It’s back, baby!

Delaware’s Burgeoning Wine Industry is at a Precipice
The threats are myriad.

It’s a Wine Store for Billionaires, But You Can Shop There Too
I always stop in when I’m in London.

Meet Manhattan’s New Guard of Wine Pros
This is a great story.

5 Must-Have Books for Every Wine Lover’s Library
An interesting list.

Pinotage, the World’s Most Divisive Wine
There are good ones to be had, for sure.

Climate Change Forces California Winemakers to Reconsider What Grapes Grow Where
Time for an update of the Winkler Index.

Move Over Goats. Cattle are the New Fire Fighters in Town
Interesting story.

Wine from Germany’s flood zone gives hope for future
Small hope is still hope.

Fires Threaten Greek Wine Revival
Just when things were getting good.

Colorado’s Ghost Towns Are Taking Over Instagram Thanks to Its Booming Wine Scene, Chic Bars, and Charming Hotels
That’s a helluva title line.

A Walk on Wine’s Wild Side
Not all those who wander are lost.

Do Low-Yield Vines Really Make Better Wines?
Science says no. So do most winemakers.

Wine scientists running studies to combat smoke exposure
We still need a solution.

Drought, frost, heat blamed for light Mendocino County wine grape crop
The locusts, so far, haven’t arrived.

‘A focus on quality’: Mexico’s wine industry bears fruit in revival of tradition
There are some good wines being made there.

LA’s Little-Known Winemaking History Dates Back 200 Years, And It’s Still Alive Today
Hollywood and Vine had vineyards.

Mark Tarlov, Hollywood Producer Turned Oregon Vintner, Dies at Age 69
A much beloved figure.

By the bottle: Anthony D’Anna
Another good drinking companion profiled.

A Tale of Two Vineyards
A really great article, and important for the times.

Challenging The Old Order
Tim Atkin muses.

Natural is Good; Natural and Socially Just is Better
Amen.

Champagne crisis bubbles up in Hamptons
Clutch your pearls.

Dry farming a vineyard: What it is, how to do it and why it exists
Lessons from Dominus.

A Healdsburg winery’s glitzy job contest promised $10,000 a month. It was a stunt – and it worked
Again.

28-Year-Old Wins Viral Wine Contest; Receives $10,000 Monthly Salary and Free Rent For A Year
A profile of one of the winners.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 8/15/20 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 5/16/21

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

Jim Clendenen 1953–2021
Positively horrible news. Lost far too soon.

Au Bon Climat’s Jim Clendenen, Colorful Santa Barbara Pioneer, Dies at 68
Spectator’s obit.

Jim Clendenen, Santa Barbara vintner who changed the course of California Pinot Noir, dies at 68
Esther’s obit.

I was done talking about cultural appropriation. The rise in anti-Asian violence pulled me back in
Not about wine, but an important article to read.

Pink Prosecco shortage predicted this year
Some people are gonna be pissed.

Sonoma grape growers prepare for harsh year of drought
Harsh is right.

Personal preferences versus professional evaluation: why we need to distinguish them
Jamie has a bone to pick.

Chenin – a transhemispherical marvel
Jancis on Chenin champions.

Caroline Gilby MW on Tokaj’s second grape: Hárslevelű
Love me some Hárs.

All change in Bordeaux
A fresh approach, says Jancis.

Why the Wine Industry Has Long Been a ‘Boys’ Club’
Same reason the rest of our industries have been.

On Wine Education
Musings, but some of it was greek to me.

Chill White Wine…But Why?
Personally, I still think its best to start cold.

Behind the Bottle: Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Looking at Brunello through Biondi

Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 2009 & reality of climate change
Good riddance to the gift boxes.

South Australia 2021 – near perfect
Brian Croser says everything went right. For once.

Matters of mycelium in Montalcino
A winegrower’s spring in Montalcino. If you want to be soothed….

Buying wine online is another pandemic-era shift that’s poised to stick around
And then some.

What Does ‘Fynbos’ Mean in Wine?
Fynbos is the new garrigue.

How Scientists and Archeologists Trace Beer and Wine through Antiquity
Carefully.

Meet the mother-daughter duo behind Ebony Wine & Spirits
The birth of a Florida brand.

Another California Winery Closes
The M&A game plays out.

Two Sonoma winery layoffs show how the industry has changed in the past decade
The Chronicle’s take on the subject.

Manure Without Animals? Vegan Winemaking Levels Up
Plant-based biodynamics? That’s a new one for me.

The Ethical Cellar: Orange Wine Is the New Rosé
In the words of Yoda: Mainstream it has gone.

A Toast to Female North Fork Wine Trailblazers
A few of the ladies of the North Fork.

Books to Inspire Hunger and Thirst
Eric shares some of his latest picks that aren’t textbooks.

In focus: how sparkling wine has fared during the pandemic
A detailed (OK, wonky) market analysis.

George Clooney faces legal battle over wine estate in Provence
Something for the lawyers to sort out.

Rich and famous converge on France’s rose vineyards
But Clooney’s on trend.

Tim James: Are we ready for more complex wine scoring?
A little navel gazing during an inside baseball game.

On 50 years in the Napa Valley wine business
Stu speaks.

An Israeli Winery Guide, With Undertones of Occupation
Geo-washing?

Wines of the Southern Rhone Valley: Romans, Aliens, and grapes from Colonel Gaddafi
A destination guide of sorts.

Cypriot grapes perform well in heat and on taste
And Xynisteri might be the coolest grape name ever.

The Filipino-American Sommeliers Changing the Narrative
More voices!

Weed and Wine Come Together in Santa Ynez Valley
Only one problem. It seems to be illegal. See SB-94 Section 26200 G-3

What I Learned Starting a Wine Import Company During a Pandemic
A success story against the odds.

What’s the Future of the Floor Sommelier Role?
A nice piece by Courtney on the return of hospitality.

Wineries concerned as California drought emergency grows
Dry as a bone.

Unions, Labor Rights and the Future of Winery Workers
Trends and outlooks.

California vineyard sales, demand booming
Interesting stats.

Why Packaging Is Wine’s New Sustainability Frontier
Oh yes. Read this.

How winemaker Donovan Rall conquered the schistous soils of Swartland
Can’t we say schisty? Sounds better.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 5/16/21 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 10/25/20

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

California fires live updates: Power cut off to 355,000 in Bay Area and state amid fierce, fire-whipping winds
But it seems to have worked.

Wine, Covid-19 and the loss of smell
Jeni Port checks in with the industry.

How Photography Led To A Winery
The story of Aperture Cellars.

Can California’s top wine region survive the era of megafire?
The Guardian checks in.

Sinskey: We Will Only Make 600 Cases of Wine This Year
A decision they made in the Spring.

The Beirut Explosion, Twelve Weeks Later: A Closer Look At Its Continued Impact On Lebanon’s Wine Industry
Cathy Huyghe talks with Karim and Sandro Saadé

The end of the sommelier?
Bring out yer dead!

80% of Napa Wineries are Moving Forward with the 2020 Vintage
Yeah, with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. This is 98% spin.

The Social Distance Vintage: Harvest in Bordeaux
An ‘ocean’ of hand sanitizer.

How drought conditions impact wine
Not just for California anymore.

Oregon vineyards lose lawsuit against marijuana operation
Didn’t meet the burden of proof, says judge.

Hurt by the pandemic and wildfires, some Napa Valley vintners request loosening of winery regulations
Let tasting rooms open longer!

England’s steep learning curve
The winners have been picked.

California’s Next Generation Lead Women Winemakers and the Promise That Accompanies Their Success.
A profile of sixteen of them.

Think Locally and Five Other Takeaways from the Wine Intelligence Consumer Trends in the Covid-19 Era Report
Everyone’s buying Australian again?!?

Armenia: making wines its own way
Christy Canterbury on Armenia.

Mt. Veeder’s Sky Vineyards: How to See a Future When Your World is Ablaze
Checking in with a family scarred by fire.

Yes, Wine Scores Still Matter
Says Matt Kettmann.

Anson: Exclusive first look inside billionaire Jack Ma’s Bordeaux project
Nice cows, nice eggs.

Why Some of the World’s Most Exciting Pinot Noirs Are Coming From New Zealand
Erica Deucy makes the case.

From the Glass Fire, comes the chance to build this Napa Valley winery again
Another telling of the Cain tragedy.

Climate change has affected 2020 wine harvests around the globe. Growers are concerned.
Concerned doesn’t quite describe it.

America’s Burgundy? Oregon’s Value Pinot Shows the Way
Paul Gregutt on the lower-priced Oregon Pinots.

A Francophile’s Unexpected Love Affair With Canadian Wine
The delight of the non-wine person.

Wine talk: Israel’s first cult wine
Yarden Katzrin. How many bottles do you have?

Wine Helps with Cannabis Classification
AVAs for Mary Jane.

Loving Tannat: Germán Bruzzone of Bodega Garzón on Uruguay’s Wine Evolution
Checking in on a poineering producer.

It’s a Bug’s Life in the Vineyard
The good guys and the bad guys.

Bruliam’s Dr. Overstreet on Harvest in a Pandemic and a Way Forward for Small Wineries
Dorothy Gaiter interviews Dr. Overstreet.

Organic Winemaking Is a Zoo With Armadillos, Falcons, and Pigs
Elin on the modern menagerie. But the baby armadillos are the cutest. Just sayin’.

There’s More Than One Way to Beaujolais
An excellent overview.

Wine Spectator Announces New Executive Editor
End of an era at the Spectator.

The battle for the soul of Napa’s To Kalon
The soul? Or the Brand?

Sonoma Starts Selling the Turbulent 2020 Vintage
Selling being the operative word.

Sonoma County Winegrowers Look to Reset After Unimaginable 2020 Season
70% have suffered some fire damage.

Nina Caplan: now, more than ever, wine is our conduit to the world
Hear, hear.

NY restaurant couple mistakenly served $2000 Mouton 1989 after ordering $18 Pinot
The real story is that the people who ordered the Mouton but got the Pinot didn’t know the difference.

How Income Inequality Has Erased Your Chance to Drink the Great Wines
Unless you are mistakenly served them at Balthazar.

Rothschild vs Rothschild, Mouton vs Lafite – as seen in 1893
Oh the drama of it all.

Experimentation Propels Virginia’s Wine Industry
Michelle Williams charts confidence.

Often Overlooked, Oregon’s Latinx Wine Community Thrives
A nice overview.

So, what’s new in the world of orange wine in 2020? We ask the on-trade
The geekiest question, ever.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 10/25/20 appeared first on Vinography.

Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 7/5/20

Welcome to my weekly roundup of the wine stories that I find of interest on the web. I post them to my magazine on Flipboard, but for those of you who aren’t Flipboard inclined, here’s everything I’ve strained out of the wine-related muck for the week.

The Rise of American Wine Pioneer Tonya Pitts
Pure class, this lady.

I’d Made an Uneasy Peace With My Job As a Sommelier. Then I Lost My Sense of Smell.
Losing her sense of Smeltz.

The Renegade Winemakers Creating Unusual Bottles with Cult Appeal
A report on the Garagistes.

Waving Goodbye to Vineyard Pesticides
And good riddance.

California winemakers bet on Mendocino County for Alpine-style wines
Esther Mobley visits the Mendo Monopole.

Beaujolais Blanc Steps into the Light
The other, other white Burgundy.

How Do You Define Rosé?
Pick a palette.

Black wine professionals demand to be seen
Don’t just see. Buy.

The Agony of Opening Your Favorite Wine
Tom Jarvis is overthinking it.

Why Spain’s Jumilla DO is Turning to Rosé
The Rodney Dangerfield of DOs.

Just 0.1% US winemakers are Black. Here’s how to start changing that
Elin McCoy suggests support.

How Do Servers Feel About Restaurants Reopening? Terrified, Mostly.
So leave big tips and wear your masks.

More limits to Sonoma County businesses likely as virus cases, deaths mount
Opened too fast, too soon.

Sibling rivalry in Champagne
Two new hands on the “wheel”

How Wine Can Stop Its Return to An Era of Snoot
Dottie and John have pointers.

16 things you need to know about grape vine trunk disease
Maybe the only article a wine geek might need to read on the subject.

What’s Wrong with “Wine Education”
Terry, thoughtful as usual.

In South Africa: visiting the new home of Testalonga
Jamie visits a natural producer in Swartland.

A tale of thwarted South African ambition
Interesting story.

The story of wine in Hong Kong
There and back again?

The Riviera’s own wine region
They make Nice wine.

The showman – an interview with Joe Fattorini
Meet Joe.

Sonoma State University Releases Study on Economic Impact of COVID-19
$9.6B loss. Ouch. 

The wine industry is overwhelmingly white. Now, the push for inclusivity is gaining momentum
Let’s do more than hope for it.

The love of your life
Alfonso Cevola says Yes.

Gov. Newsom warns Californians to follow new health orders ahead of Fourth of July
Shut ‘em back down again.

Tony Terlato, a Giant in the U.S. Wine Industry, Dies at 86
Another of that generation gone.

The real cost of wine
Robert Joseph on how to make wine more expensive. Really.

Champagne houses embrace direct selling
White flakes are falling from the sky in Hell…

‘First conviction’ over fake Bordeaux wines in China
Keep cracking down.

How do you produce a vintage in lockdown?
Harvest interns in the Southern Hemisphere got stuck.

Report: COVID-19s Direct Toll on California Wine Industry at $4.21 Billion
The number will only rise.

Huge Wine Frauds Uncovered in Europe
Not the end of this story.

3 Black Wine Experts On Diversity, Representation And Inclusion Within The Industry
Chelsea Davis interviews.

The post Wine News: What I’m Reading the Week of 7/5/20 appeared first on Vinography: A Wine Blog.