A second subtitle to Steven Spurrier’s memoirs could easily have been “O, the decadence!” His life seems like one long, exuberant dinner party featuring the best bottles of wine, the best food, and a who’s who of wine. It’s an absolute pleasure to read about and to live vicariously through, but I’ll admit I was left wishing for a fuller picture of the man himself.
Spurrier is best known as the man behind the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, also known as the Judgment of Paris. I’d never heard of it, or Spurrier, until I saw the movie Bottleshock. Alan Rickman plays Spurrier, portraying him as stern and somewhat pensive. But the man on the pages of A Life in Wine has more of an endearing roll-with-the-punches attitude, and certainly more joie de vie.
Spurrier was born in Cambridge, England, in 1941. At the age of 13, he shared a glass of port (Cockburn 1908) with his grandfather, which inspired him to pursue a career in wine. “It was probably the wine trade that saved me from an early demise,” says Spurrier. “For although I never minded losing my inhibitions socially, relying on charm to smooth over the consequences, I soon realized that I could not do this professionally.”
He got his start at Christopher’s, one of the “big three” wine merchants at the time, which afforded him opportunities to travel, even working in the cellars in Burgundy and Champagne. At the age of 23, two very important things happened to him: He met his future wife, Bella, and he inherited more than £5 million (in today’s dollars, which is about $6.7 million) from the sale of the family gravel business.
But just a few years later Spurrier notes, “my large inheritance began to slip through my fingers. The decisions were all mine, but I always expected the results to be better than they were.” I’m sorry to say (because there are so many wonderfully interesting and positive aspects of this man’s life) that his financial ebbs and flows are what captured most of my attention. A twenty-something who inherits such wealth should be set for life! Unfortunately, as Spurrier admits, “I was an easy target for adventurers who needed backing for a nightclub or for making a movie, and since they all seemed like good ideas at the time and were proposed by friends, it was both tempting and flattering to go along with them.”
To his credit, as A Life in Wine bears out, Spurrier is nothing if not a loyal friend.
Beyond his financial mismanagement, there isn’t much else in the book about his personal failings. His vices. His fears. His marital and parental struggles. Perhaps it’s unfair of me to expect the memoirs to go beyond their explicitly stated scope (i.e., A Life in Wine), but I would’ve liked to have seen more of the raw details that make up, well, all of our lives.
Spurrier gives ample space for his famous Academie du Vin and the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting. I learned a great deal about that historic event that I hadn’t known. He also shares the story of how he came to be making world class wine in England, which he’s still doing today!
I won’t chart the full course of his life (you’ll have to read the book), but I will say that it’s a whirlwind of wine and global travel. To read it is compelling. To have lived it… well, that’s something to envy!
My recommendation Steven Spurrier is a classic. He’s so endearing and he lives life with gratitude and an open hand–something I certainly admire and aspire to. If you’re a fan of biographies, or just interested to learn more about this icon of the wine world, A Life in Wine is a terrific read.
If you have not already, click here to view all the ways to support local businesses at this time. Keep reading to view all the new rosé releases in Woodinville Wine Country this summer!
Baer has released their first EVER Rosé. It’s a 2019 Rosé of Cabernet Franc. There are only 77 cases available and has been getting great reviews from customers who added it to their spring shipment. The aromas are of kumquat and blood orange, smarties candy, and white gummy bear. In the mouth, it is very tangy and mouthwatering, bright, fresh, and crisp.
Introducing the 2019 Chateau Ste. Michelle Limited Release Le Rosé, Yakima Valley
“The Chateau Ste. Michelle Limited Release Le Rosé transforms the ordinary to extraordinary. Sip and savor the elegant aromas of light citrus and sweet red berries and be instantly transported to luxury. Enjoy!” -Lacey Steffey, Winemaker
Gard Vintners 2018 Rosé Grand Klasse Reserve received 91 pts and Editor’s Choice from Wine Enthusiast and they are offering a 6-pack Special:
Regular price: $144; Club: $100; Non-Club: $115
Case Special (12 bottles):
Regular price: $288; Club: $160; Non-Club: $180
“Very pale blush-pink color. Lovely floral lift to the aromas of strawberry, raspberry and citrus fruits. This round, dense but dry rosé delivers terrific intensity and concentration and finishes with palate-staining length.” – Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Spring has sprung, and they have a delightful pink deal for you. Starting in May and going through June you can buy two bottles of either TruthTeller or Miscreant Project rosés for only $20 (retailed at $29)!
2019 “Unleashed” Sparkling Rosé – We’re in LOVE with this zesty wine. It boasts bright fruit flavors such as grapefruit, strawberry, raspberry, and a hint of rhubarb. The first sip feels like a sunburst on the palate.
2019 Rosé – This fruit forward wine has an intoxicating nose with notes of strawberry, grapefruit, and cranberry. It is light on the palate with a vibrant finish.
Zerba Cellars has the 2019 Sangiovese Rose in stock. It’s barrel fermented with hints of grapefruit, melon, strawberry and cream. It’s a bone dry treat!
If you’d prefer a sweeter rose, there’s their 2019 Dad’s Vineyard Wild Pink Rose. They pressed whole clusters of all 7 red varietals from Dad’s Vineyards to produce a delicate, sweet, vibrant, crisp Rose.
Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week included three Sauvignon Blancs in honor of International Sauvignon Blanc Day, which was yesterday, May 1st. Some have described New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as perhaps the most dependable wine in the world — meaning that even if you choose one at random, you’re likely to get a decent quality wine that tastes similar to what you’d expect it to taste like. I tend to agree. What this also means is that there’s a lot of New Zealand Sauv Blanc that is just “OK.” Of the three I’ve got below, the one that rises above the others is the Ata Rangi “Raranga” bottling from the Martinborough area at the southern end of New Zealand’s North Island. It’s got the best combination of green, tangy, mouthwatering flavors that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc does so well. The Neudorf and Nautilus wines are no slouches either.
Moving on to things closer to home for me, I’m very excited to be tasting some of the newest releases from Two Shepherds this week. Two Shepherds is the project of one William Allen, former wine blogger and software sales executive and his partner Karen Daenen. Their most recent releases are the best I’ve had from his little label, I’ll have more tasting notes next week, but for now if you’re a fan of Trousseau Gris, you’ll love his interpretation of this grape, which offers orange peel and floral notes with a hint of earthier, more serious stuff in the background. And the Cinsault he offered from the famous Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi is also a winner.
I wrote a bit about the All-Petite-Sirah project Mountain Tides last week, and I’ve got a few more tasting notes to share this week, most notably their rosé of Petit Sirah which suggests to me that a lot more people ought to be trying to make pink versions of this grape. It’s outstanding. Alongside that, I’ve also got notes on a couple of their single-site Petite Sirahs, each quite good.
In the Pinot Noir department I’ve got a couple of Sokol Blosser’s single-vineyard Pinot’s this week, which oddly seemed to show wildly different levels of oak influence — more difference than I would expect from some of the top bottlings from such an experienced producer. Of the two wines I reviewed this week, I preferred the Old Vineyard Block, with its dusty earthy fruit that sang of Oregon.
Finally, I’ve got two wines from Southern Oregon this week, courtesy of producer Abacela, a pioneer in the region and perhaps the winery singlehandedly responsible for the exploration of Tempranillo as a signature grape in the region. In addition to their reserve Tempranillo, I also tasted their Tinta Amarela, an obscure Iberian grape that has a distinct and interesting personality, and is worth finding for the curious wine drinkers out there who want to taste something different.
Notes on all these and more below.
2018 Ata Rangi “Raranga” Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand Pale greenish gold in color, this wine smells of green apple and gooseberries. In the mouth, green apple and gooseberry flavors have the bright juiciness of passionfruit as the wine kicks the saliva glands into overdrive. Nice mineral undertone and neon green gorgeousness. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $21. click to buy.
2017 Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of struck flint and cut grass. In the mouth, green apple and cut grass flavors have a nice brightness thanks to very good acidity, but the wine fades slightly on the palate and isn’t as dynamic as I might like. Tasty nonetheless. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2019 Nautilus Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apple, honeysuckle and cut grass. In the mouth, freshly cut grass, lime zest and green apple mix with a tart sourish brightness that is almost electric thanks to excellent acidity. Lean and somewhat astringent, but dynamic. The sourness grows on you. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $15. click to buy.
2018 Two Shepherds “Skin Fermented – Fanucchi Vineyard” Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California A light peachy color in the glass, this wine smells of orange peel, white flowers and just a hint of butterscotch. In the mouth, butterscotch, orange peel and faint vanilla flavors have a wonderful silkiness and brightness to them, thanks to excellent acidity. For a skin fermented wine there’s very little tannic grip here, just that faintest earthy, citrus peel flavor that lingers in the finish. Outstanding. 12.1% alcohol. 325 cases made. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $30. click to buy.
2019 Mountain Tides Rosé of Petite Sirah, California Palest salmon pink in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, crabapples and unripe pear. In the mouth, very lean and brisk flavors of sour cherry, crabapple and citrus peel are juicy and bright thanks to excellent, even aggressive acidity. I can’t remember if I’ve ever had a rosé of Petite Sirah, but if they’re going to be this tasty, I certainly hope to have more. 11.8% alcohol. 125 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $20. click to buy.
2016 Two Shepherds “Bechthold Vineyard” Cinsault, Lodi, Central Valley, California Light to medium ruby in color the point of almost resembling rosé, this wine smells of dried herbs and strawberries. In the mouth, bright strawberry and herb flavors are zingy with acidity and tinged with hints of cola and dried citrus peel. This is what people call a smashable wine, or as the French say, “glou glou.” Give it a slight chill and watch out, you’ll need three bottles. 13.3% alcohol. 30 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $??.
2017 Sokol Blosser “Goosepen Block” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of redwood bark and mulling spices. In the mouth, raspberry and cherry flavors are shot through with the spiciness of oak with the wood and its tannins lingering for a long time in the finish. A bit too much wood influence here for me. The winery’s smallest vineyard block, at 2.5 acres, is named after their (unsuccessful) attempt to use geese for weed control once upon a time. 13.5% alcohol.450 cases produced. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $85. click to buy.
2017 Sokol Blosser “Old Vineyard Block” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of forest floor and red berries. In the mouth, wonderfully earthy flavors of raspberry and cherry are held firmly in a smooth but muscular fist of tannins that linger in the finish. Excellent acidity and much better integrated oak than some of their other single-vineyard wines. This one has longevity. 14% alcohol. 500 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $50. click to buy.
2018 Mountain Tides “Palmero Family Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Borden Ranch, Lodi, Central Valley, California Inky dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and blackberries and chopped green herbs. In the mouth, ripe blueberry and blackberry flavors mix with chalk-dust tannins that coat the mouth and provide a faintly grainy texture to the wine which finishes with floral and licorice notes. Excellent acidity keeps this from being too weighty on the palate. 14.4% alcohol. 75 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $36. click to buy.
2018 Mountain Tides “Grist Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California Dark purple in color, this wine smells of doused campfire, blackberries and licorice. In the mouth, licorice, blackberries and cassis flavors are dark in quality, but bright in acidity, making this at once brooding and juicy at the same time. Floral and licorice notes linger in the finish. 14.4% alcohol. 75 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $38. click to buy.
2016 Abacela Tinta Amarela, Umpqua Valley, Southern Oregon, Oregon Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of licorice and cassis. In the mouth, boysenberry and licorice flavors have a wonderfully bright aspect thanks to excellent acidity as well as a powdery blanket of tannins that wraps around the core of fruit. This unusual Portuguese grape variety doesn’t seem to have the depth or complexity of Tempranillo, but it is tasty and quite distinctive nonetheless. 14.4% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $30.
2015 Abacela “Reserve – South East Block” Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley, Southern Oregon, Oregon Inky garnet in the glass, this wine smells of leather, raisins and chocolate. In the mouth, fleecy tannins surround a core of dried cherry, raisin and fresh cherry fruit. Deeper, earthy leather and black cherry flavors fill the lower register of the wine, while a touch of bergamot lingers in the finish. Burly and serious. 14.6% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $50. click to buy.
Hello, and welcome to my periodic dig through the samples pile. I’m pleased to bring you the latest installment of Vinography Unboxed, where I highlight some of the better bottles that have crossed my doorstep recently.
This week included three Sauvignon Blancs in honor of International Sauvignon Blanc Day, which was yesterday, May 1st. Some have described New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as perhaps the most dependable wine in the world — meaning that even if you choose one at random, you’re likely to get a decent quality wine that tastes similar to what you’d expect it to taste like. I tend to agree. What this also means is that there’s a lot of New Zealand Sauv Blanc that is just “OK.” Of the three I’ve got below, the one that rises above the others is the Ata Rangi “Raranga” bottling from the Martinborough area at the southern end of New Zealand’s North Island. It’s got the best combination of green, tangy, mouthwatering flavors that New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc does so well. The Neudorf and Nautilus wines are no slouches either.
Moving on to things closer to home for me, I’m very excited to be tasting some of the newest releases from Two Shepherds this week. Two Shepherds is the project of one William Allen, former wine blogger and software sales executive and his partner Karen Daenen. Their most recent releases are the best I’ve had from his little label, I’ll have more tasting notes next week, but for now if you’re a fan of Trousseau Gris, you’ll love his interpretation of this grape, which offers orange peel and floral notes with a hint of earthier, more serious stuff in the background. And the Cinsault he offered from the famous Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi is also a winner.
I wrote a bit about the All-Petite-Sirah project Mountain Tides last week, and I’ve got a few more tasting notes to share this week, most notably their rosé of Petit Sirah which suggests to me that a lot more people ought to be trying to make pink versions of this grape. It’s outstanding. Alongside that, I’ve also got notes on a couple of their single-site Petite Sirahs, each quite good.
In the Pinot Noir department I’ve got a couple of Sokol Blosser’s single-vineyard Pinot’s this week, which oddly seemed to show wildly different levels of oak influence — more difference than I would expect from some of the top bottlings from such an experienced producer. Of the two wines I reviewed this week, I preferred the Old Vineyard Block, with its dusty earthy fruit that sang of Oregon.
Finally, I’ve got two wines from Southern Oregon this week, courtesy of producer Abacela, a pioneer in the region and perhaps the winery singlehandedly responsible for the exploration of Tempranillo as a signature grape in the region. In addition to their reserve Tempranillo, I also tasted their Tinta Amarela, an obscure Iberian grape that has a distinct and interesting personality, and is worth finding for the curious wine drinkers out there who want to taste something different.
Notes on all these and more below.
2018 Ata Rangi “Raranga” Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand Pale greenish gold in color, this wine smells of green apple and gooseberries. In the mouth, green apple and gooseberry flavors have the bright juiciness of passionfruit as the wine kicks the saliva glands into overdrive. Nice mineral undertone and neon green gorgeousness. 12.5% alcohol. Score: around 9. Cost: $21. click to buy.
2017 Neudorf Sauvignon Blanc, Nelson, New Zealand Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of struck flint and cut grass. In the mouth, green apple and cut grass flavors have a nice brightness thanks to very good acidity, but the wine fades slightly on the palate and isn’t as dynamic as I might like. Tasty nonetheless. 13% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $22. click to buy.
2019 Nautilus Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand Pale gold in the glass, this wine smells of green apple, honeysuckle and cut grass. In the mouth, freshly cut grass, lime zest and green apple mix with a tart sourish brightness that is almost electric thanks to excellent acidity. Lean and somewhat astringent, but dynamic. The sourness grows on you. 13% alcohol. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $15. click to buy.
2018 Two Shepherds “Skin Fermented – Fanucchi Vineyard” Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California A light peachy color in the glass, this wine smells of orange peel, white flowers and just a hint of butterscotch. In the mouth, butterscotch, orange peel and faint vanilla flavors have a wonderful silkiness and brightness to them, thanks to excellent acidity. For a skin fermented wine there’s very little tannic grip here, just that faintest earthy, citrus peel flavor that lingers in the finish. Outstanding. 12.1% alcohol. 325 cases made. Score: between 9 and 9.5. Cost: $30. click to buy.
2019 Mountain Tides Rosé of Petite Sirah, California Palest salmon pink in color, this wine smells of wet chalkboard, crabapples and unripe pear. In the mouth, very lean and brisk flavors of sour cherry, crabapple and citrus peel are juicy and bright thanks to excellent, even aggressive acidity. I can’t remember if I’ve ever had a rosé of Petite Sirah, but if they’re going to be this tasty, I certainly hope to have more. 11.8% alcohol. 125 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $20. click to buy.
2016 Two Shepherds “Bechthold Vineyard” Cinsault, Lodi, Central Valley, California Light to medium ruby in color the point of almost resembling rosé, this wine smells of dried herbs and strawberries. In the mouth, bright strawberry and herb flavors are zingy with acidity and tinged with hints of cola and dried citrus peel. This is what people call a smashable wine, or as the French say, “glou glou.” Give it a slight chill and watch out, you’ll need three bottles. 13.3% alcohol. 30 cases made. Score: around 9. Cost: $??.
2017 Sokol Blosser “Goosepen Block” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon Light to medium garnet in color, this wine smells of redwood bark and mulling spices. In the mouth, raspberry and cherry flavors are shot through with the spiciness of oak with the wood and its tannins lingering for a long time in the finish. A bit too much wood influence here for me. The winery’s smallest vineyard block, at 2.5 acres, is named after their (unsuccessful) attempt to use geese for weed control once upon a time. 13.5% alcohol.450 cases produced. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $85. click to buy.
2017 Sokol Blosser “Old Vineyard Block” Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon Medium garnet in color, this wine smells of forest floor and red berries. In the mouth, wonderfully earthy flavors of raspberry and cherry are held firmly in a smooth but muscular fist of tannins that linger in the finish. Excellent acidity and much better integrated oak than some of their other single-vineyard wines. This one has longevity. 14% alcohol. 500 cases produced. Score: around 9. Cost: $50. click to buy.
2018 Mountain Tides “Palmero Family Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Borden Ranch, Lodi, Central Valley, California Inky dark purple in the glass, this wine smells of blueberries and blackberries and chopped green herbs. In the mouth, ripe blueberry and blackberry flavors mix with chalk-dust tannins that coat the mouth and provide a faintly grainy texture to the wine which finishes with floral and licorice notes. Excellent acidity keeps this from being too weighty on the palate. 14.4% alcohol. 75 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $36. click to buy.
2018 Mountain Tides “Grist Vineyard” Petite Sirah, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, California Dark purple in color, this wine smells of doused campfire, blackberries and licorice. In the mouth, licorice, blackberries and cassis flavors are dark in quality, but bright in acidity, making this at once brooding and juicy at the same time. Floral and licorice notes linger in the finish. 14.4% alcohol. 75 cases made. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Cost: $38. click to buy.
2016 Abacela Tinta Amarela, Umpqua Valley, Southern Oregon, Oregon Dark garnet in color, this wine smells of licorice and cassis. In the mouth, boysenberry and licorice flavors have a wonderfully bright aspect thanks to excellent acidity as well as a powdery blanket of tannins that wraps around the core of fruit. This unusual Portuguese grape variety doesn’t seem to have the depth or complexity of Tempranillo, but it is tasty and quite distinctive nonetheless. 14.4% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $30.
2015 Abacela “Reserve – South East Block” Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley, Southern Oregon, Oregon Inky garnet in the glass, this wine smells of leather, raisins and chocolate. In the mouth, fleecy tannins surround a core of dried cherry, raisin and fresh cherry fruit. Deeper, earthy leather and black cherry flavors fill the lower register of the wine, while a touch of bergamot lingers in the finish. Burly and serious. 14.6% alcohol. Score: around 8.5. Cost: $50. click to buy.
For those in the wine trade, one of the characteristics of Spring has long been the proliferation of wine tasting events. These events, which often have a public component as well, begin in February and by April, an ambitious wine taster can easily be going to three or four per week.
Now, of course, nothing of the sort is happening. The last place anyone wants to be is jostling shoulder to shoulder and sharing pours from a communal wine bottle that is often handled by scores of people before it is empty.
But, such tastings are fantastic opportunities to taste wine, and, more importantly, educate one’s palate. They can also be a load of fun.
One of my favorite tastings each year is the Wine & Spirits Top 100 event, which coincides with the publishing of their Top 100 wines of the year. Most of the wineries honored in that annual issue show up to pour their awarded wines as well as whatever else they may have brought along.
At the end of the annual tasting, I always find myself wishing I had another couple of hours to wander around and taste wine. Perhaps this is partly because of the bottomless oyster bar with fresh kumamoto oysters, a welcome respite from rounds of tasting, but mostly the wines on offer are generally of such high quality that I simply would like to taste them all.
Sitting here now in self-isolation with time to finally compile my notes and scores for these wines, such a tasting seems like an incomparable luxury — a hallmark of a different time and place, far removed from current circumstances. Reviewing the wines I tasted offers something of a reverie of flavor and pleasure that after only a few months already has a tinge of nostalgia for me.
If you’re stuck at home (and who isn’t?) looking for wines to buy, this might be an interesting list to explore. There are wines here to fit any price point, and pretty much every one of these wines will deliver pleasure and personality in equal measure.
I can only hope that events such as this will be held once again as we emerge from the strictures that mark this current battle against our invisible foe.
Here are my roughly 100 scores from the 2019 Top 100 tasting held this past Autumn in San Francisco. For those unfamiliar with my approach at such tastings, suffice it to say that they are far from the best environment to carefully and thoughtfully evaluate wines. Instead of taking detailed tasting notes, I jot down initial impressions and offer a score, all of which you may choose to take with a requisite grain of salt given the circumstances of the tasting.
Tasting Notes
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2004 Bollinger Brut R.D., Champagne, France. Biscuit, brioche seaweed, shells and crushed rocks to infinity and beyond. Killer.$165 – Buy. 2011 Roederer Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France. Perfect balance fruity biscuit, seaweed and crushed shells. Wowza.$70 – Buy.
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée, Champagne, France. $50 – Buy. NV Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France. Bright balanced, juicy, chalky with sea air.$80 – Buy. NV Paillard Extra Brut Première Cuvée RosÉ, Champagne, France. Hint of funk, bright berry and lanolin.$60 – Buy. 2009 Roederer Brut Nature Philippe Starck, Champagne, France. Lean, crisp, mineral and bright.$95 – Buy.
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2014 Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Brut, Finger Lakes, New York. Bright and juicy.$25 – Buy. 2014 Pere Ventura Gran Reserva Brut Rosé, Cava, Spain. Tangy citrus and apple, unusual, herbal.$59 – Buy. 2016 Pere Ventura Tresor Reserva Brut, Cava, Spain. Smooth, mellow but bright.$18 – Buy. 2008 Vesselle Grand Cru Brut Prestige, Champagne, France.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2016 Donnafugata Ben Rye, Passito di Pantelleria, Italy. Honey, apricot nutty goodness, citrus peel with a finish forever.$43 – Buy.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2017 Antinori Cervaro della Sala Chardonnay, Umbria, Italy. Smoky flinty, juicy, bright, lemon and grapefruit.$59 – Buy. 2011 Argyros 4 Years Barrel Aged Vinsanto, Santorini, Greece. $60 – Buy. 2018 Argyros Estate Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece. $29 – Buy. 2017 Brooks Ara Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Chalky, bright, lean and juicy.$26 – Buy. 2015 Chanin Wine Co. Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara, California. $39 – Buy. 2017 Cobb Wines Doc’s Ranch Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. Sappy, bright, juicy lemony gorgeousness.$70 – Buy. 2015 Domaine Matrot Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru, Burgundy, France. Bright sappy, lemon, grapefruit.$100 – Buy. 2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Gewürztraminer, Finger Lakes, New York. Gorgeous, juicy, floral, orange peel, crisp.$16 – Buy. 2017 Lingua Franca Estate Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Juicy, sappy, lemon curd and mineral.$50 – Buy. 2005 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain. Nutty, lemon peel, nut skin.$46 – Buy. 2017 Schloss Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal, Austria. $43 – Buy. 2017 Suertes del Marques Valle de la Orotava Vidonia Listán Blanco, Tenerife, Canary Islands. Salty flinty, bright citrus bang.$45 – Buy.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2017 Brooks, Estate Riesling, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $34 – Buy. 2017 Deovlet Wines Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, California. Apple, lemon, bright.$32 – Buy. 2017 Guigal La Doriane, Condrieu, Rhone Valley, France. $115 – Buy. 2016 Meroi Zitelle Pesarin Friulano, Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy. 2017 Patz & Hall Goldrock Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. $70 – Buy. 2018 Ridge Vineyards Adelaida Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles, California. Salty and bright, juicy, citrus, and greengage plum.$35 – Buy. 2013 Rodriguez Vazquez Escolma White, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain. Nutty, oxidative, bright and salty.$65 – Buy. 2017 Schloss Gobelsburg Renner Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria. $48 – Buy. 2017 Tablas Creek Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, Central Coast, California. $33 – Buy. 2017 Zorah Wines Voski, Rind, Armenia. Crisp, citrus peel, apple.$40 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10 2013 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. Elegant bright, sandalwood, cherry, hint of barnyard, long finish. Exquisite.$315 – Buy. 2016 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, California. Juicy and bright, with that coconut and cherry. Polished, elegant and deeply resonant.$200 – Buy. 2015 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy. Juicy bright, long, tasty and sour cherry. Perhaps the best I’ve tasted it.$250 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2013 Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Stunning. Suede-like tannins, lovely fruit and gorgeous balance. Wow.$85 – Buy. 2017 Big Table Farm Earth Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Smooth, juicy, herbal, juicy, excellent. 2016 Chanin Wine Co. Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California. Stunning, bright, juicy, floral, crystalline, wizardly.$59 – Buy. 2016 Cobb Wines Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. Sappy juicy, crystalline, bright, raspberry gorgeousness.$119 – Buy. 2013 Elvio Cogno Ravera Bricco Pernice, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Gorgeous, bright supple, juicy, long, long long. Delicious.$139 – Buy. 2013 Conterno Fantino Castelleto Vigna Pressenda, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Gorgeous supple, lovely tannins. Stunning fruit and balance.$80 – Buy. 2016 Corison Winery Sunbasket Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa, California. Gorgeous cassis, cherry. Amazing acidity, Stunner.$195 – Buy. 2017 Deovlet Wines Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California. Floral, fantastic, berry brightness and mouthwatering acidity.$60 – Buy. 2015 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, Napa, California. Gorgeous, bright, hint of oak, great acidity. Killer bottle of Cabernet.$169 – Buy. 2015 Moric Neckenmarkt Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Gorgeous, sour cherry mulberry, fantastic acid. Super.$85 – Buy. 2015 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Bright cherry mulberry, bright, great acidity, long. Stunner.$110 – Buy. 2007 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Gorgeous, red apple skin, bright, plush tannins. Aging beautifully. 2014 Penfolds Grange Shiraz South Australia. Oak, cherry, balanced and bright, long finish. Effortless. Smooth operator.$570 – Buy. 2017 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy. Bright, with tight tannins, long juicy, sandalwood and cherry. Excellent.$45 – Buy. 2016 W.T. Vintners Damavian Blocks 30 & 31 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. Incredibly floral, profound, bright, juicy, gorgeous.$49 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2016 Antinori Tignanello, Tuscany, Italy. Cherry berry, cola, and all juicy.$120 – Buy. 2016 Brooks Sunny Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Gorgeous earthy – berries and wet dirt$50 – Buy. 2016 Calera Reed Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California. Sweet, juicy, smooth and gorgeous.$75 – Buy. 2014 Chevalerie Cuvée Chevalerie, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France. Gorgeous, supple, tangy, berry, fine tannins, mineral. 2014 Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Citrusy, bright, with leathery tannins. Delicious.$69 – Buy. 2017 Conterno Fantino Vignota, Barbera D’Alba, Piedmont, Italy. $48 – Buy. 2002 Corison Winery Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California. Ruby brick, miso, red apple skin. 2016 Cristom Vineyards Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon $75 – Buy. 2015 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, California. Bluer, black fruit, juicy bright.$150 – Buy. 2015 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy. Bright juicy, long, cherry, with its share of oak.$75 – Buy. 2015 Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France. $30 – Buy. 2017 Lingua Franca The Plow Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Bright, with raspberry floral notes.$65 – Buy. 2007 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Tinto, Rioja, Spain. Bright juicy, tight and bright.$35 – Buy. 2016 Mullineux Schist Syrah, Swartland, South Africa. Gorgeous fine tannins, great acid.$120 – Buy. 2013 Rocca di Montegrossi Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy. Great.$49 – Buy. 2015 Terre Rouge DTR Ranch Syrah, Sierra Foothills, California. 2014 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena 5°, Ribera del Duero, Spain. Oak influenced, elegant.$170 – Buy. 2016 Zorah Wines Karasi, Rind, Armenia. Berry, juicy, bright, herbs and flowers.$39 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2016 Alessandria Priora Barbera Superiore, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy. $18 – Buy. 2017 Big Table Farm Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Juicy, herbal.$45 – Buy. 2014 Burlotto Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. $199 – Buy. 2018 Burlotto Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy $30 – Buy. 2015 Calera Selleck Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California. More citrusy, evolved, red apple skin.$60 – Buy. 2016 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard River Stones Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. Juicy bright, supple, blue and black fruit$150 Buy. 2014 Chevalerie Cuvée Galichets, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France. $23 – Buy. 2016 Domaine Matrot La Pièce Sous Le Bois Rouge, Blagny Premier Cru, Burgundy, France. $77 – Buy. 2016 Grattamacco L’Alberello, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy. Oaky, tannic, but earthy smooth.$65 – Buy. 2016 J. Christopher Winery Abbey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $65 – Buy. 2010 López de Heredia Cubillo, Rioja, Spain. $25 – Buy. 2016 Moric Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Juicy, bright and tangy.$35 – Buy. 2017 Moric Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Beautiful mulberry fruit, supple tannins.$27 – Buy. 2016 Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz, South Australia. Juicy cherry, blackberry.$50 – Buy. 2016 Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy. Juicy and bright.$20 – Buy. 2015 Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia, Tuscany, Italy. $40 – Buy. 2017 Suertes del Marques Viñas Viejas El Chibirique Listán Negro, Tenerife Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands. Struck match, mineral, bright, juicy berry, smoky.$26 – Buy. 2016 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Tablas, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, Central Coast, California $60 – Buy. 2016 Terre Rouge L’Autre Grenache, Sierra Foothills, California. $30 – Buy. 2009 Vega-Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero, Spain. Barnyard, with a bit of VA, but still compelling.$500 – Buy. 2016 W.T. Vintners Boushey Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington. $40 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2017 Catena Zapata, Malbec, Argentina. $17 – Buy. 2016 J. Christopher Winery Basalte Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $30 – Buy. 2016 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. $40 – Buy. 2015 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. Savory, green lively herbs, earth.$75 – Buy. 2015 Rodriguez Vazquez A Torna Dos Pasas Tinto, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain. Juicy, tangy, sour cherry.$30 – Buy.
For those in the wine trade, one of the characteristics of Spring has long been the proliferation of wine tasting events. These events, which often have a public component as well, begin in February and by April, an ambitious wine taster can easily be going to three or four per week.
Now, of course, nothing of the sort is happening. The last place anyone wants to be is jostling shoulder to shoulder and sharing pours from a communal wine bottle that is often handled by scores of people before it is empty.
But, such tastings are fantastic opportunities to taste wine, and, more importantly, educate one’s palate. They can also be a load of fun.
One of my favorite tastings each year is the Wine & Spirits Top 100 event, which coincides with the publishing of their Top 100 wines of the year. Most of the wineries honored in that annual issue show up to pour their awarded wines as well as whatever else they may have brought along.
At the end of the annual tasting, I always find myself wishing I had another couple of hours to wander around and taste wine. Perhaps this is partly because of the bottomless oyster bar with fresh kumamoto oysters, a welcome respite from rounds of tasting, but mostly the wines on offer are generally of such high quality that I simply would like to taste them all.
Sitting here now in self-isolation with time to finally compile my notes and scores for these wines, such a tasting seems like an incomparable luxury — a hallmark of a different time and place, far removed from current circumstances. Reviewing the wines I tasted offers something of a reverie of flavor and pleasure that after only a few months already has a tinge of nostalgia for me.
If you’re stuck at home (and who isn’t?) looking for wines to buy, this might be an interesting list to explore. There are wines here to fit any price point, and pretty much every one of these wines will deliver pleasure and personality in equal measure.
I can only hope that events such as this will be held once again as we emerge from the strictures that mark this current battle against our invisible foe.
Here are my roughly 100 scores from the 2019 Top 100 tasting held this past Autumn in San Francisco. For those unfamiliar with my approach at such tastings, suffice it to say that they are far from the best environment to carefully and thoughtfully evaluate wines. Instead of taking detailed tasting notes, I jot down initial impressions and offer a score, all of which you may choose to take with a requisite grain of salt given the circumstances of the tasting.
Tasting Notes
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2004 Bollinger Brut R.D., Champagne, France. Biscuit, brioche seaweed, shells and crushed rocks to infinity and beyond. Killer.$165 – Buy. 2011 Roederer Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France. Perfect balance fruity biscuit, seaweed and crushed shells. Wowza.$70 – Buy.
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 NV Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée, Champagne, France. $50 – Buy. NV Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France. Bright balanced, juicy, chalky with sea air.$80 – Buy. NV Paillard Extra Brut Première Cuvée RosÉ, Champagne, France. Hint of funk, bright berry and lanolin.$60 – Buy. 2009 Roederer Brut Nature Philippe Starck, Champagne, France. Lean, crisp, mineral and bright.$95 – Buy.
SPARKLING WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2014 Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Brut, Finger Lakes, New York. Bright and juicy.$25 – Buy. 2014 Pere Ventura Gran Reserva Brut Rosé, Cava, Spain. Tangy citrus and apple, unusual, herbal.$59 – Buy. 2016 Pere Ventura Tresor Reserva Brut, Cava, Spain. Smooth, mellow but bright.$18 – Buy. 2008 Vesselle Grand Cru Brut Prestige, Champagne, France.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2016 Donnafugata Ben Rye, Passito di Pantelleria, Italy. Honey, apricot nutty goodness, citrus peel with a finish forever.$43 – Buy.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2017 Antinori Cervaro della Sala Chardonnay, Umbria, Italy. Smoky flinty, juicy, bright, lemon and grapefruit.$59 – Buy. 2011 Argyros 4 Years Barrel Aged Vinsanto, Santorini, Greece. $60 – Buy. 2018 Argyros Estate Assyrtiko, Santorini, Greece. $29 – Buy. 2017 Brooks Ara Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Chalky, bright, lean and juicy.$26 – Buy. 2015 Chanin Wine Co. Bien Nacido Vineyard Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara, California. $39 – Buy. 2017 Cobb Wines Doc’s Ranch Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. Sappy, bright, juicy lemony gorgeousness.$70 – Buy. 2015 Domaine Matrot Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru, Burgundy, France. Bright sappy, lemon, grapefruit.$100 – Buy. 2017 Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery Gewürztraminer, Finger Lakes, New York. Gorgeous, juicy, floral, orange peel, crisp.$16 – Buy. 2017 Lingua Franca Estate Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Juicy, sappy, lemon curd and mineral.$50 – Buy. 2005 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Blanco, Rioja, Spain. Nutty, lemon peel, nut skin.$46 – Buy. 2017 Schloss Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal, Austria. $43 – Buy. 2017 Suertes del Marques Valle de la Orotava Vidonia Listán Blanco, Tenerife, Canary Islands. Salty flinty, bright citrus bang.$45 – Buy.
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2017 Brooks, Estate Riesling, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $34 – Buy. 2017 Deovlet Wines Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County, California. Apple, lemon, bright.$32 – Buy. 2017 Guigal La Doriane, Condrieu, Rhone Valley, France. $115 – Buy. 2016 Meroi Zitelle Pesarin Friulano, Friuli Colli Orientali, Italy. 2017 Patz & Hall Goldrock Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California. $70 – Buy. 2018 Ridge Vineyards Adelaida Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Paso Robles, California. Salty and bright, juicy, citrus, and greengage plum.$35 – Buy. 2013 Rodriguez Vazquez Escolma White, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain. Nutty, oxidative, bright and salty.$65 – Buy. 2017 Schloss Gobelsburg Renner Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Austria. $48 – Buy. 2017 Tablas Creek Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, Central Coast, California. $33 – Buy. 2017 Zorah Wines Voski, Rind, Armenia. Crisp, citrus peel, apple.$40 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9.5 AND 10 2013 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy. Elegant bright, sandalwood, cherry, hint of barnyard, long finish. Exquisite.$315 – Buy. 2016 Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains, California. Juicy and bright, with that coconut and cherry. Polished, elegant and deeply resonant.$200 – Buy. 2015 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy. Juicy bright, long, tasty and sour cherry. Perhaps the best I’ve tasted it.$250 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2013 Fratelli Alessandria Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Stunning. Suede-like tannins, lovely fruit and gorgeous balance. Wow.$85 – Buy. 2017 Big Table Farm Earth Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Smooth, juicy, herbal, juicy, excellent. 2016 Chanin Wine Co. Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California. Stunning, bright, juicy, floral, crystalline, wizardly.$59 – Buy. 2016 Cobb Wines Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. Sappy juicy, crystalline, bright, raspberry gorgeousness.$119 – Buy. 2013 Elvio Cogno Ravera Bricco Pernice, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Gorgeous, bright supple, juicy, long, long long. Delicious.$139 – Buy. 2013 Conterno Fantino Castelleto Vigna Pressenda, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Gorgeous supple, lovely tannins. Stunning fruit and balance.$80 – Buy. 2016 Corison Winery Sunbasket Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa, California. Gorgeous cassis, cherry. Amazing acidity, Stunner.$195 – Buy. 2017 Deovlet Wines Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara, California. Floral, fantastic, berry brightness and mouthwatering acidity.$60 – Buy. 2015 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, Napa, California. Gorgeous, bright, hint of oak, great acidity. Killer bottle of Cabernet.$169 – Buy. 2015 Moric Neckenmarkt Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Gorgeous, sour cherry mulberry, fantastic acid. Super.$85 – Buy. 2015 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Bright cherry mulberry, bright, great acidity, long. Stunner.$110 – Buy. 2007 Moric Lutzmannsburg Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Gorgeous, red apple skin, bright, plush tannins. Aging beautifully. 2014 Penfolds Grange Shiraz South Australia. Oak, cherry, balanced and bright, long finish. Effortless. Smooth operator.$570 – Buy. 2017 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto, Bolgheri, Tuscany, Italy. Bright, with tight tannins, long juicy, sandalwood and cherry. Excellent.$45 – Buy. 2016 W.T. Vintners Damavian Blocks 30 & 31 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. Incredibly floral, profound, bright, juicy, gorgeous.$49 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2016 Antinori Tignanello, Tuscany, Italy. Cherry berry, cola, and all juicy.$120 – Buy. 2016 Brooks Sunny Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Gorgeous earthy – berries and wet dirt$50 – Buy. 2016 Calera Reed Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California. Sweet, juicy, smooth and gorgeous.$75 – Buy. 2014 Chevalerie Cuvée Chevalerie, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France. Gorgeous, supple, tangy, berry, fine tannins, mineral. 2014 Elvio Cogno Ravera Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. Citrusy, bright, with leathery tannins. Delicious.$69 – Buy. 2017 Conterno Fantino Vignota, Barbera D’Alba, Piedmont, Italy. $48 – Buy. 2002 Corison Winery Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California. Ruby brick, miso, red apple skin. 2016 Cristom Vineyards Marjorie Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon $75 – Buy. 2015 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, California. Bluer, black fruit, juicy bright.$150 – Buy. 2015 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy. Bright juicy, long, cherry, with its share of oak.$75 – Buy. 2015 Guigal, Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone Valley, France. $30 – Buy. 2017 Lingua Franca The Plow Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. Bright, with raspberry floral notes.$65 – Buy. 2007 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Reserva Tinto, Rioja, Spain. Bright juicy, tight and bright.$35 – Buy. 2016 Mullineux Schist Syrah, Swartland, South Africa. Gorgeous fine tannins, great acid.$120 – Buy. 2013 Rocca di Montegrossi Gran Selezione Vigneto San Marcellino, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy. Great.$49 – Buy. 2015 Terre Rouge DTR Ranch Syrah, Sierra Foothills, California. 2014 Vega-Sicilia Valbuena 5°, Ribera del Duero, Spain. Oak influenced, elegant.$170 – Buy. 2016 Zorah Wines Karasi, Rind, Armenia. Berry, juicy, bright, herbs and flowers.$39 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2016 Alessandria Priora Barbera Superiore, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy. $18 – Buy. 2017 Big Table Farm Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Juicy, herbal.$45 – Buy. 2014 Burlotto Monvigliero, Barolo, Piedmont, Italy. $199 – Buy. 2018 Burlotto Pelaverga, Verduno, Piedmont, Italy $30 – Buy. 2015 Calera Selleck Vineyard Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, Central Coast, California. More citrusy, evolved, red apple skin.$60 – Buy. 2016 Catena Zapata Adrianna Vineyard River Stones Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. Juicy bright, supple, blue and black fruit$150 Buy. 2014 Chevalerie Cuvée Galichets, Bourgueil, Loire Valley, France. $23 – Buy. 2016 Domaine Matrot La Pièce Sous Le Bois Rouge, Blagny Premier Cru, Burgundy, France. $77 – Buy. 2016 Grattamacco L’Alberello, Bolgheri Superiore, Tuscany, Italy. Oaky, tannic, but earthy smooth.$65 – Buy. 2016 J. Christopher Winery Abbey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $65 – Buy. 2010 López de Heredia Cubillo, Rioja, Spain. $25 – Buy. 2016 Moric Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Juicy, bright and tangy.$35 – Buy. 2017 Moric Blaufrankisch, Burgenland, Austria. Beautiful mulberry fruit, supple tannins.$27 – Buy. 2016 Penfolds Bin 389 Shiraz, South Australia. Juicy cherry, blackberry.$50 – Buy. 2016 Rocca di Montegrossi, Chianti Classico, Tuscany, Italy. Juicy and bright.$20 – Buy. 2015 Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia, Tuscany, Italy. $40 – Buy. 2017 Suertes del Marques Viñas Viejas El Chibirique Listán Negro, Tenerife Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands. Struck match, mineral, bright, juicy berry, smoky.$26 – Buy. 2016 Tablas Creek Vineyard Esprit de Tablas, Adelaida District, Paso Robles, Central Coast, California $60 – Buy. 2016 Terre Rouge L’Autre Grenache, Sierra Foothills, California. $30 – Buy. 2009 Vega-Sicilia Unico, Ribera del Duero, Spain. Barnyard, with a bit of VA, but still compelling.$500 – Buy. 2016 W.T. Vintners Boushey Vineyard Syrah, Yakima Valley, Washington. $40 – Buy.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2017 Catena Zapata, Malbec, Argentina. $17 – Buy. 2016 J. Christopher Winery Basalte Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains, Willamettte Valley, Oregon. $30 – Buy. 2016 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California. $40 – Buy. 2015 Reynvaan Family Vineyards Foothills in the Sun Vineyard Reserve Syrah, Walla Walla Valley, Washington. Savory, green lively herbs, earth.$75 – Buy. 2015 Rodriguez Vazquez A Torna Dos Pasas Tinto, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain. Juicy, tangy, sour cherry.$30 – Buy.
I received a message from Frank “Drink What You Like” Morgan about Saturday’s (March 28th) Open That Bottle of Virginia Wine Night. I thought this would be a good opportunity to lurk a bit on social media and learn (from home) more about Virginia Wine. (Take a look back via #VaWineNight.) Since we’re not going out and attending tastings, sitting at wine bars, and just congregating with friends over a few bottles, this is a great way to get educated and informed about local wines without leaving your domicile.
I’ll give another quick shout-out to Frank for his ongoing Virginia Wine Chats via Facebook. A couple recent guests on this 30-minute video program (with links to their websites):
But wait. Lenn Thompson and Gina Shay of The Cork Report having taken this notion (with Frank’s blessing) and expanded it to Open That Bottle of Local Wine Night (#OpenLocalWine). So I checked in on wines from all over the country and saw what people are drinking. I know I missed many wine-producing states and even more bottles. So take some time perusing the two hashtags for innumerably more discoveries.
Macari Vineyards, North Fork of Long Island / Image via Facebook
My goal with this post is spread some knowledge about, and give attention to, local wineries. As Lenn put it:
This is a tough time for local wineries, no matter where local is for you. Tasting rooms as we know them are closed down. Curbside pickup and online sales are helping keep wineries afloat, but no one really knows how long they’ll need to operate like this – or how long most will be able to, financially.
New York
Staring with Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, who are amazing and inspiring. They write “Love By The Glass” for Grape Collective. I’ve been a fan of Macari Vineyards since I tried their Pinot Meunier (which I have a thing for). Not had the chance to try the 2019 rosé, but had a very memorable couple of glasses of the 2018 out of a 15-liter (!) bottle. (That’s 20 bottles-worth.)
One of my favorite wine country trips ever was to the Finger Lakes. The Riesling from dry to off-dry to sweet is all excellent, but there are plenty of other reds, whites, pinks, and sparklings to explore. Fond of Meg’s statement here: “I think the whole ‘I hate sweet wines’ thing is bs, no offense.” I’ll paraphrase/quote Terry Theise here, who says, “Sweetness is not a crime.”
Nebbiolo from VA? When it’s made by Luca Paschina, who is from Piedmont (Nebbiolo’s home….hello Barolo, Barbaresco) and winemaker at Barboursville Vineyards, yes please. Great-sounding paring here, BTW. (A little recap from my wonderful visit to Barboursville a few years ago is here.)
Ah, Early Mountain. I have really enjoyed their rosé in the past but I’m woefully behind on what they are up to. This Soif (“Thirst”) would be right up my alley. A blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, it’s a quaffable 12.3% ABV. And made via carbonic maceration (like some Beaujolais), which scientifically translates to fruity fresh fun.
Ten years ago (!) I had my first wines from Pennsylvania. And, sadly, none since. Now that I’m living on the East Coast I really have no excuse. Tantalized by this bottle from Penns Woods Winery, still going strong after 15 years.
PA GV?!? Whoa. Very cool, Nimble Hill Winery & Brewery. This ‘gram also smashes one of the most worthless food and wine pairing “rules.” See my classic (and very brief) post “Asparagus and Wine Blah Blah Blah” (2009 vintage). Gruner (or any zesty white wine) and asparagus are excellent. Fine use of #perfectpairing.
I have not had a Petite Pearl. Shelburne Vineyard‘s website explains why they do what they do, grape-wise:
Temperatures in Vermont can frequently dip below zero. And while our summers are short, they are often hot and humid. Grape varieties grown in our climate must be disease resistant and hardy enough to withstand such extremes of cold and humidity.
And here’s the deal with Petite Pearl:
A very new Minnesota hybrid red wine grape with excellent cold hardiness and disease resistance. Produces complex wines with soft tannins and low acidity.
The University of Minnesota is recognized as one of the top wine grape research programs in the country, with the goal of developing high-quality, cold-hardy, and disease-resistant wine grape cultivars. The wine grape breeding program began in the mid-’70s, and in 2000 an enology lab and research winery opened at the Horticultural Research Center.
Today more than 12,000 experimental vines are cultivated on 12 acres. Thousands of seedlings are produced each year using a diverse genetic base that includes classic Vitis vinifera cultivars, quality French hybrids, and hardy, disease-resistant selections based on V. riparia, Minnesota’s native grape.
Wow, this is a really cool discovery. The first vintage from Michigan Wine Co! Also, yes to white wine and red meat. (Congratulations on getting label approval from the TTB, BTW.)
This is a great wine. Kudos to Ryme Cellar‘s Vermentino. Owners/winemakers Ryan and Megan Glaab both love Vermentino, but have a “fundamental disagreement of the most endearing qualities this grape has to offer.” Was détente possible? Yes:
The only compromise was to have separate projects, “His” and “Hers”. “Hers” with a green label harvested for freshness and energy. It is whole cluster pressed and bottled early. “His”, orange label, is fermented on the skins, and requires more time in barrel.
When I went to Lodi back in 2016, what really surprised me were the white wines. So much more than Zinfandel there. So go from Z to A with this Albariño from Bokisch Vineyards.
Yes to Savage Grace. A big fan of the lighter touch of Michael Savage’s wines. I’ve enjoyed his Loire-ish Cabernet Franc, but have yet to try his white Cab Franc. Making a white wine from red grapes has got to be a delicate matter, getting that clear juice without color/tannin impact from red grape skins. (Also try Savage Grace’s also Loire-ish Malbec, aka Côt.)
A post shared by Aaron Diaz (@aaronswinechronicles) on
Oregon
A very underrated grape from the Willamette Valley. So much more than outstanding Pinot Noir in this region, and the historic Willamette Valley Vineyards is a good place to start.
A rosé in black and white. I dig the wine glass. William Chris Vineyard makes their pink from a blend of 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Malvasia Bianca (very interesting), and 20% Sangiovese.
If you haven’t head about the plan to levy 100% tariffs on European wine (and cheese, whiskey, olive oil, and more food products), you have until January 13th, 2020 to express your displeasure.
This will be a disaster for wineries, importers, distributors, restaurants, and retail shops. My friend Jeremy Parzen of Do Bianchi has written a blog post interviewing those who will be affected. Here’s what Jamie Wolf of Chambers Street Wines in New York has to say:
This is so disastrous that the consequences are hard to wrap my head around, but it looks life-threatening. David Lillie and I have spent 18 years building our business, and it could get wiped out in one blow; for better or worse we’ve tied our love of European wine to the life of our shop. We have 25 employees, many with families; we pay their health insurance; we pay a boatload of taxes. Chambers Street Wines is a micro business, but there are many thousands of employees and owners around the country who will be similarly affected — to say nothing of how this will impact our wine loving customers.
Michael Teer, owner of Seattle’s Pike and Western Wine Shop, had this to say in his weekly newsletter:
We depend on small and large passionate importers to supply us with wine from small, producers throughout France, Italy and Spain, which is about 65% of our business. Their survival, and Pike and Western’s is at stake. We cannot make up for the lost business by selling more local or Southern Hemisphere wine.
I’m perusing all my posts from the year. Won’t you join me on a little journey back in time?
I started off the year with some wine resolutions. Did I keep them? What were they again? I put my cards on the table while recording a segment for the awesome Snacky Tunes podcast. (They talk about food, they talk about music.)
What’s the secret to a Bloody Mary? It’s actually…wine? YES. Hey, I discovered it at a brunch cocktail class so it’s legit. Find out what wine and why.
Some of the best wine advice this year didn’t come from me. Yeah, pretty unbelievable, huh? It actually came from the blog of a steak house in a tiny Iowa town.
So what does the rest of the year and 2019 hold? Well, I’m going to Marta on NYE (very early) to drink big bottles of Champagne being poured by-the-glass. (That’s BTG, BTW.) Then eating cassoulet in a tucked-away house in Red Hook. Far from the crazies. In 2019 I have an article coming out in a print mag that’s *NOT* about wine. Also working on a podcast project that’s *NOT* about wine though it will be consumed during said recording and will be commented on. I’ll be in Texas in February for some wine writing mentoring. That’s it so far.
These pinks are easy going down and easy on the wallet.
When it comes to warm-weather drinking, rose is the new go-to. In 2015, the volume of rose sales was up more than 44% year over year. With rose being such a popular wine we thought we’d give you our recommendations for some amazing rose that won’t break the bank. These rose wines vary in hue from a pale blush too vibrant salmon, from the Provence region of France to Horse Heaven Hills in Washington.
Baron De Funes Rosado 2017: Made from 100% Garnacha, this is a lean pink wine loaded with cut strawberry and fresh mint accents. For under $10, this wine is a tasty, screaming deal. https://madwine.com/rose/92761-baron-de-funes-rosado-2017.html$6.99
Regaleali Rosato 2017: Thousands of roses, brought in from all over the world, thrive on the Regaleali estate. The name of this wine has changed to reflect these incredible flowers. Unchanged, however, are the Nerello Mascalese grapes which give Le Rose di Regaleali its class and elegant fragrance. Deep salmon-pink in color, offers delicate aromas of cherry, raspberry, blackberry, and-appropriate to its name-rose petals. Rich on the palate with refreshing acidity and a long, flavorful finish, this is what Sicilians enjoy in the summertime. Perfect for tuna, salmon, poultry, pork, and flavorful pasta dishes, this wine is universally food-friendly. https://madwine.com/rose/92801-regaleali-rosato-2017.html$9.99
Michel Lynch Rose 2017: Candy pink in color, this is a soft wine. Its caramel and spice are balanced with the red-currant fruits to give an easy, open wine that is ready to drink. https://madwine.com/rose/92794-michel-lynch-rose-2017.html$10.99
Librandi Circo Rosato 2017: The vineyards that dot the countryside of the small town of Ciro Marina overlook the Ionian Sea and benefit from cool ocean breezes, thus producing grapes with spicy and floral aromas. Ciro Rosato is made from 100% Gaglioppo, Calabria’s signature variety, selectively harvested in late September into early October. https://madwine.com/rose/92791-librandi-ciirco-rose-2017.html$11.99
Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux D’Aix en Provence Rose 2017: Bargemone is among the foremost estates of the Coteaux d’Aix appellation of Provence. A benchmark producer of the delicious, dry rose for which Provence is famous. Offers classic aromas of wild strawberries and red currants, with a light, floral character and a crisp, bone dry palate. https://madwine.com/rose/86770-commanderie-de-la-bargemone-coteaux-d-aix-en-provence-rose-aoc-2016.html$14.99
AIX Rose 2017: This is a smooth, beautifully ripe wine. It is well balanced, with crisp red and orange fruits adding a refreshing background to the spice and acidity. This finely made wine is ready to drink. https://madwine.com/rose/91742-aix-rose-2016.html$17.99
Whispering Angel Rose 2017: The Rose that put Provence on the map! Very French in style, loads of minerality, light peach, fresh strawberries, and a hint of rosewater. The bright acid makes this the perfect rose to pair with grilled Sea Scallops wrapped in fresh watermelon. Perfect for that patio dinner. 91 POINTS DECANTER. https://madwine.com/rose/92798-whispering-angel-rose-2017.html$19.99
Julia’s Dazzle Rose 2016: Though the highest price on this list, this unique Rose of Pinot Gris is named after Allen’s granddaughter, Julia, and is sourced from a special block from The Benches Vineyard at Wallula in Horse Heaven Hills. The grapes were left to hang until they developed a bright tint, then gently pressed and the clarified juice slowly fermented at cool temperatures to retain the wine’s intensely vibrant aromatics and flavors. Fresh and lively with bright aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries and melon complimented by a racy acidity that lingers across a clean, off dry finish. https://madwine.com/rose/90492-julia-s-dazzle-rose-2016.html$22.99
… … 
The Finger Lakes are ~5 hours from Pittsburgh—local-ish, right? NY is PA’s neighbor to the north, so I think it counts! … … 
Hermann J. Wiemer 2017 Semi-Dry Riesling is a Kabinett-style wine with a touch of sweetness. I specifically picked an off-dry wine because I think the whole “I hate sweet wines” thing is bs, no offense. 
Pair a wine like this with a cheese plate, spicy food, or brunch and I promise you’ll change your mind!! 
… … … … 
#riesling #whitewine #fingerlakes #fingerlakesregion #fingerlakeswine #flxwine #flx #fingerlakesny #drinkny #newyorkwine #nywine #localwine #rieslinglover #rieslingwine #rieslingrocks #sweetwine #wineblogger #wineblog #winebottle #winenight #winenerd
@garytoczko @lennthompson
We’ve got our @michiganwineco 2019 Frontenac Gris to start. Grown at Granderview Vineyards in Hudsonville, MI. We’re pairing this up with venison tacos 
tonight! While we don’t have a label on the bottle yet, the good news is TTB just approved it yesterday, so we can get it off to the printer soon! Here’s a little sneak peak at the artwork… #michiganwine #openlocalwinenight #miwineco #frontenacgris #hudsonvillewine #hybridgrapes #drinklocal #winelover #winestagram #fennvillewineries #michigangrown #taconight
for Open that Bottle of Local Wine Night comes to you from @bokischvineyards! This 2018 Las Cerezas Vineyard Albariño is sunshine in a glass. Organically grown, this Albariño hails from Bokisch’s “Mother Block” that was planted in 1999 with grape cuttings they sourced from Spain. You could say, this is where it all began—a storied history of one of California’s Spanish variety pioneers! . Also, I just want to say how grateful I am to be a wine club member. With the shelter in place order we are currently experiencing, Bokisch kindly delivered our wine shipments to us yesterday. An excellent example of a big time winery with down home hospitality. #OpenLocalWine #LodiWine #Lodi #lodica #visitlodi #WineCountry #drinklocal #albariño #CaliforniaWine #wine #winery #winetime #vineyard #finefoodiephilanthropist #saturdaynight
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #aaronswinechronicles #pnwwine #wine #winetime #winecountry #winedestinations #wawine #wavineyard #vineyard #winelover #washingtonwine #winelife #winetasting #wineporn #wineblogger #winestagram #redwine #wineglass #vinolove #winereview #winecellar #vino #wineexperience #wineblog #wineries #winepairing #winesofinstagram #wines #fidelitas #redmountainwine
its loaded with delicious aromas of candied citrus, floral notes and hints of fruit loops 
and I paired with a #carrot #tomato #chipotle #soup 
. . . #texaswine #wine #winelover #foodandwine #wineandfoodpairing #winetasting #homechef #amateurchef #cookingathome #winepairing
